Bacalao al Pil Pil (Salt Cod with Garlic and Chilli Oil)

Few Spanish salt-cod dishes are as distinctive as bacalao al pil pil, a Basque preparation where the fish’s natural gelatin is coaxed into a glossy olive-oil sauce. The cod is first desalinated, then gently warmed rather than fried, allowing it to stay tender while enriching the oil. Garlic and chilli bring fragrance and mild heat, but the defining feature is the pale, lightly thickened emulsion that clings to the flakes of fish. Served hot with parsley and plenty of sauce, it is simple in ingredients but precise in technique, best suited to careful, unhurried cooking.
Cuisine style Basque Spanish seafood
Spice level Mild
Techniques Desalting • Low-temperature oil-poaching • Emulsifying
Key equipment Saucepan • Whisk
Cooking style Make-ahead friendly • Minimal cleanup
Time commitment Make-ahead friendly

Why this recipe works

  • Classic pil pil method: Skin-on salt cod releases gelatin into the warm oil, giving the sauce body without cream or starch.
  • Infused oil: Garlic and chilli are warmed gently first, so the oil carries their flavour through both the fish and the sauce.
  • Glossy sauce: Whisking the oil back into the gelatin-rich liquid creates a lightly thickened emulsion that coats the cod.

Get the most out of this recipe

Timing notes

  • Plan for desalting: Salt cod needs a long soak in the fridge before cooking; changing the water properly is essential for a balanced final seasoning.
  • Serve straight away: Pil pil sauce is at its best immediately after emulsifying, while it is glossy, warm and stable.
  • Short active cooking: Most of the time is passive soaking; the hands-on cooking is focused on gentle heat and careful sauce building.

Common mistakes

  • Using too much heat: The cod should gently poach in the oil, not fry. High heat can toughen the fish and make the emulsion harder to control.
  • Adding oil too quickly: Drizzle the reserved oil in gradually while whisking. If the sauce starts to split, pause the oil and whisk until it comes back together.
  • Stopping before it thickens: The sauce should lightly coat the back of a spoon; if it looks thin, keep whisking gently rather than adding anything unnecessary.

Authenticity notes

  • Basque-style salt cod: Bacalao al pil pil is closely associated with Basque cooking, where salt cod, olive oil, garlic and chilli are used with restraint.
  • No cream needed: The signature sauce comes from cod gelatin and olive oil emulsifying together, rather than from dairy or added thickeners.

Serving ideas

  • Serve with potatoes or bread: Boiled potatoes or crusty bread work well for catching the pil pil sauce without competing with the fish.
  • Finish simply: A little parsley keeps the dish fresh and lets the garlic, chilli and olive oil remain the main flavours.

Equipment you'll need

Ingredients
Instructions
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  1. Rinse the salted cod under cold running water, then place it in a bowl and cover with the water. Soak in the fridge for 24 hours, changing the water 3 to 4 times. Drain well and pat dry.
  2. Slice the garlic thinly and pick the parsley leaves, then finely chop the parsley. Set both aside so they are ready to go once the oil is warm.
  3. Pour the olive oil into a saucepan and set over low heat. Add the garlic and chilli flakes and cook gently for 6 to 8 minutes until the garlic is pale golden and fragrant, without letting it brown.
  4. Lift out the garlic and chilli with a spoon and set aside, leaving the infused oil in the pan. Let the oil cool for 2 to 3 minutes so it is warm but not sizzling.
  5. Add the cod to the oil skin-side up in a single layer. Keep the heat very low and cook for 8 to 10 minutes, gently spooning a little oil over the fish, until the cod is just opaque and begins to release its gelatin.
  6. Carefully lift the cod out onto a warm plate, keeping the oil in the pan. Let the oil settle for 1 minute, then pour off most of the clear oil into a jug, leaving the milky, gelatin-rich liquid in the pan.
  7. Set the pan over very low heat and whisk the liquid in the pan continuously while slowly drizzling in the reserved oil, a little at a time. Keep whisking until you have a glossy, lightly thickened pil pil sauce that coats the back of a spoon; if it looks like it is splitting, stop adding oil and whisk until it comes back together.
  8. Return the cod to the pan and spoon the sauce over the top to coat. Warm through for 2 to 3 minutes, then scatter over the reserved garlic and chilli and finish with the parsley. Serve immediately, hot, with plenty of the sauce.

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Recipe notes

Tips

  • Keep the heat very low throughout: the cod should gently confit in the oil, not fry, which helps the gelatin release and makes the sauce easier to emulsify.
  • If the sauce thickens too much, whisk in a spoonful of warm oil from the jug to loosen it; if it looks thin, keep whisking off the heat for a minute to help it come together.
  • Fish should be cooked until opaque and flaking; if serving anyone who is pregnant, elderly, or immunocompromised, make sure the cod is cooked piping hot all the way through.

Substitutions

  • Replace chili flakes with a smaller amount of chili flakes for a milder heat, or a larger amount for more heat.
  • Replace fresh flat-leaf parsley with fresh basil for a different herbal finish.

Storage

  • Refrigerate up to 2 days
  • Cool quickly, then refrigerate in a sealed container. Reheat very gently in a saucepan over low heat until piping hot, adding a splash of water if needed to loosen the sauce; avoid boiling as the emulsion can split.

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Bacalao al Pil Pil (Salt Cod with Garlic and Chilli Oil)
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Recipe overview

  • Servings: 4 servings
  • Total time: 3h 10min (35min active)
  • Difficulty: Advanced
  • Cuisine: Spanish
  • Allergens:
    Fish
One pot

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