Brandade de Morue Nîmoise (Salt Cod and Olive Oil Purée)
Why this recipe works
- Salt cod handled properly: Soaking, rinsing and gentle poaching tame the saltiness while keeping the fish tender enough to flake into the purée.
- Silky texture: Warm milk and olive oil are beaten in gradually, helping the potato and cod form a glossy, spoonable mixture.
- Deep savoury flavour: Bay leaves, garlic and good olive oil add aromatic depth without overwhelming the distinctive taste of the salt cod.
Get the most out of this recipe
Timing notes
- Allow time for soaking: The cod needs a full soak in cold water, with several water changes, so plan this step before the day you want to serve it.
- Most of the time is inactive: The hands-on work is mainly boiling, poaching, mashing and beating; the long timing comes from desalting the cod.
- Best served hot: Brandade is at its best straight from the oven, when the top is lightly golden and the centre is still soft and creamy.
Ingredient notes
- Taste before salting: Salt cod varies widely, so taste a small flake after soaking and season the finished brandade only if it genuinely needs it.
- Use an olive oil you like: Olive oil is a defining flavour here; a fruity extra virgin oil gives the purée a fuller, more rounded finish.
- Check the fish carefully: Even boneless salt cod can contain small bones, so flake it thoroughly before mixing it into the potatoes.
Texture tips
- Keep the base warm: Warm potatoes take in the milk and oil more easily, giving the brandade a smoother texture.
- Add liquid gradually: Beat in the warm milk little by little, then drizzle in the olive oil slowly so the purée becomes glossy rather than loose.
- Do not boil the milk: The milk should be steaming, not bubbling, which helps the mixture stay smooth as it is worked into the cod and potato.
Make-ahead tips
- Desalt the cod ahead: The soaking step can be completed in advance, with the cod kept chilled until you are ready to cook.
- Reheat gently: Reheat leftovers in a 180°C (355°F) oven until piping hot, adding a small splash of milk if the purée has firmed up.
- Best texture on the day: Although it keeps in the fridge, the brandade is creamiest when baked and served the same day it is mixed.
Equipment you'll need
Ingredients
Instructions
- Rinse the salted cod, then place it in a bowl and cover with plenty of cold water. Soak in the fridge for 24 hours, changing the water 3 to 4 times.
- Peel the potatoes and cut into even chunks. Put them in a large pot, cover with cold water, and bring to the boil; cook for 15 to 20 minutes until very tender.
- While the potatoes cook, drain the cod and put it in a saucepan with the bay leaves. Cover with fresh cold water, bring just to a gentle simmer, then poach for 8 to 10 minutes until the fish flakes easily.
- Drain the potatoes well and return them to the hot pot for 1 minute to steam-dry. Mash until smooth, then keep on a very low heat so they stay warm.
- Lift the cod out, discard the bay leaves, and flake the fish, checking for any bones. Add the cod to the warm potatoes and mash together until evenly combined.
- Finely chop the garlic. Warm the milk in the saucepan with the garlic for 2 to 3 minutes over low heat, just until steaming, then remove from the heat.
- Beat the warm garlicky milk into the cod and potato mixture a little at a time until smooth. Slowly drizzle in the olive oil while beating vigorously, until the brandade is glossy and spoonable; season with black pepper and add fine sea salt only if it needs it.
- Heat the oven to 200°C (390°F). Spoon the brandade into a baking dish and bake for 15 to 20 minutes until hot throughout and lightly golden on top.
Recipe notes
Tips
- Soak the cod in the fridge, and taste a small flake after soaking; if it is still aggressively salty, give it another water change and a little more time.
- Keep the milk warm, not boiling, so the purée stays smooth and does not split when you beat it in.
- If serving vulnerable groups, use pasteurised milk and ensure the brandade is baked until piping hot throughout.
Substitutions
- Replace whole milk with lactose-free milk for a similar richness.
- Replace extra virgin olive oil with light olive oil for a milder flavour.
Storage
- Refrigerate up to 2 days
- Cool, cover and refrigerate. Reheat in a 180°C (355°F) oven for 15 to 20 minutes until piping hot, adding a small splash of whole milk if it has stiffened.
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Recipe overview
- Servings: 4 servings
- Total time: 3h 30min (45min active)
- Difficulty: Medium
- Cuisine: French
-
Allergens:
Fish Milk
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