Hunkar Begendi (Turkish Lamb with Aubergine Purée)

In Hunkar begendi, tender tomato-braised lamb is served over a smoky aubergine purée enriched with béchamel, butter and aged sheep’s milk cheese. The dish is one of Turkey’s most recognisable combinations of slow-cooked meat and silky vegetable purée: savoury lamb shoulder gives depth to the sauce, while charred aubergine brings a distinctive smokiness that keeps the richness in check. It is best served immediately, with the stew spooned into a shallow well of warm purée so the glossy juices mingle through the creamy base. Generous, deeply savoury and elegant enough for a weekend dinner, it rewards careful browning, gentle simmering and properly blackened aubergines.
Cuisine style Turkish comfort food
Cooking style Make-ahead friendly • Hands-off cooking • Freezer-friendly
Time commitment Slow-cooked

Why this recipe works

  • Deep savoury base: Browning the lamb first, then cooking the tomatoes until jammy, builds depth before the long gentle simmer.
  • Silky aubergine purée: Blending charred aubergine into béchamel creates a smooth, smoky base that holds the melted cheese evenly.
  • Recognisable smoky flavour: Charring the aubergines until fully collapsed gives the purée the distinctive flavour that defines the dish.

Get the most out of this recipe

Timing notes

  • Use the simmering time well: Most of the time is passive simmering, so prepare the aubergine purée while the lamb cooks.
  • Serve while the purée is warm: The aubergine base thickens as it stands, so it is best served hot and smooth straight from low heat.

Texture tips

  • For a smoother purée: Blend the aubergine thoroughly into the béchamel before adding the cheese, then keep the heat very gentle.
  • For tender lamb: Keep the stew at a gentle simmer rather than a hard boil so the lamb shoulder softens without drying out.
  • Avoid grainy cheese: Once the cheese is added, do not let the purée boil; low heat helps it stay smooth.

Make-ahead tips

  • Store separately: Cool the lamb and aubergine purée in separate airtight containers so the sauce does not loosen the purée.
  • Reheat gently: Warm the lamb on the hob with a splash of water if needed, and reheat the purée over low heat, stirring often.
  • Freezer-friendly: Both components can be frozen after cooking, then defrosted overnight in the fridge before reheating slowly.

Equipment you'll need

Ingredients

Lamb stew

Smoky aubergine purée (begendi)

Instructions
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  1. Cut the lamb into bite-sized pieces. Finely slice the onion, crush the garlic, and grate the tomatoes, discarding the skins if you like. Season the lamb with a pinch of the salt and pepper.
  2. Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Brown the lamb well, turning so it colours on all sides. Transfer the lamb to a bowl, leaving the fat in the pot.
  3. Reduce the heat to medium and cook the onion with a pinch of salt until soft and lightly golden. Stir in the garlic for 30 seconds until fragrant. Add the grated tomatoes and cook until thickened and jammy.
  4. Return the lamb to the pot and add the water, remaining salt, and pepper. Bring to a gentle simmer, then cover and cook on low heat for 75 to 85 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the lamb is very tender and the sauce is glossy. If it looks dry at any point, add a splash of water and keep the simmer gentle.
  5. While the lamb simmers, char the aubergines directly over a gas flame or under a hot grill, turning until the skins are blackened and the flesh is collapsed. Leave to cool until you can handle them. Split open, scoop out the flesh, and discard the skins.
  6. Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the flour and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until it smells lightly nutty. Gradually whisk in the milk and cook, whisking, until thick and smooth.
  7. Add the aubergine flesh to the béchamel and blend until silky, then return to low heat. Stir in the aged sheep’s milk cheese until melted and smooth, and season to taste with a little more salt and pepper if needed. Keep warm over very low heat, stirring often so it does not catch.
  8. Taste the lamb stew and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Spoon the warm aubergine purée onto plates and make a shallow well. Ladle the lamb and its sauce over the top and serve straight away.

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Recipe notes

Tips

  • For the smokiest flavour, char the aubergines until the skins are fully blackened and the flesh feels very soft; under-charring gives a bland purée.
  • Keep the béchamel at a gentle heat once the cheese is added; boiling can make it grainy.
  • Food safety: if serving vulnerable guests, ensure the lamb is cooked until piping hot throughout.

Substitutions

  • Replace Aged sheep’s milk cheese with Parmesan for a similar salty finish.
  • Replace Whole milk with semi-skimmed milk for a lighter béchamel, but expect a slightly less rich purée.
  • Replace Extra virgin olive oil with Olive oil for a milder flavour.

Storage

  • Refrigerate up to 3 days
  • Cool the lamb and aubergine purée separately, then refrigerate in airtight containers. Reheat the lamb gently on the hob with a splash of water until piping hot; warm the purée over low heat, stirring often. Freeze for up to 2 months; defrost overnight in the fridge before reheating.

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Recipe overview

  • Servings: 4 servings
  • Total time: 2h (35min active)
  • Difficulty: Advanced
  • Cuisine: Turkish
  • Allergens:
    Gluten Milk Wheat
Freezer friendly

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