Brandade de Morue (French Salt Cod and Potato Gratin)
Why this recipe works
- Classic salt cod preparation: Soaking the cod first draws out excess salt, leaving the fish seasoned but not harsh.
- Light, creamy base: Warm milk and olive oil are worked gradually into the potato and cod, creating a smooth, airy mixture rather than a dense mash.
- Golden topping: Breadcrumbs add a crisp surface that contrasts with the soft, savoury brandade underneath.
Get the most out of this recipe
Timing notes
- Plan for soaking: Salt cod needs a full day in cold water before cooking, with several water changes to moderate the salinity.
- Most of the work is hands-off: The active preparation is mainly boiling, flaking, mashing and assembling; the long lead time comes from desalting the fish.
- Serve hot from the oven: Brandade is at its best when the top is freshly golden and the filling is bubbling at the edges.
Ingredient notes
- Choose good salt cod: Skinless, boneless salt cod makes preparation easier, but still check carefully for stray bones after poaching.
- Control the seasoning: The final saltiness depends on the cod, so taste after soaking and use a little extra warm milk if the mixture needs softening.
- Potato choice matters: Yukon Gold potatoes give a smooth, buttery mash; a flourier potato such as Maris Piper will make the brandade slightly lighter.
Texture tips
- Beat while adding oil: Drizzle in the olive oil gradually while beating so the mixture turns pale and light instead of greasy or heavy.
- Steam-dry the potatoes: Returning the drained potatoes to the hot pot briefly removes excess moisture and helps the mash absorb the milk and oil cleanly.
- Poach the cod gently: Keep the fish at a gentle simmer only; hard boiling can toughen the flakes before they are folded through the mash.
Make-ahead tips
- Assemble in advance: The brandade can be made ahead, cooled, covered and refrigerated before baking or reheating.
- Reheat gently: Warm leftovers in a 180°C (355°F) oven until piping hot, adding a small splash of milk if the mixture seems dry.
- Best freshly baked: Although it keeps well for a short time, the breadcrumb topping is crispest on the day it is baked.
Equipment you'll need
Ingredients
Instructions
- Soak the salted cod in plenty of cold water in the fridge for 24 hours, changing the water 3 to 4 times. Drain well.
- Peel the potatoes and cut into even chunks. Put them in a large pot, cover with cold water, bring to the boil, then simmer for 15 to 20 minutes until very tender.
- While the potatoes cook, put the cod in a saucepan and cover with fresh cold water. Bring just to a gentle simmer and cook for 8 to 10 minutes until the fish flakes easily, then drain and flake, discarding any bones or skin.
- Warm the milk in the same saucepan over low heat with the garlic, lightly crushed, for 5 minutes to infuse. Remove and discard the garlic.
- Drain the potatoes well and return them to the hot pot for 1 minute to steam-dry. Mash until smooth, then add the butter and black pepper.
- Add the flaked cod to the potatoes and beat vigorously, adding the warm milk a little at a time. Keep beating while you drizzle in the olive oil until the mixture looks pale, light and fluffy.
- Heat the oven to 200°C (390°F). Spread the brandade into a baking dish, level the top, and sprinkle evenly with the breadcrumbs.
- Bake for 18 to 22 minutes until bubbling at the edges and golden on top. Cut the lemon into wedges and serve alongside to squeeze over at the table.
Recipe notes
Tips
- If the brandade tastes a little salty after soaking, add a splash more warm milk while whipping to soften the seasoning.
- For a lighter texture, beat the mixture with a whisk in a mixing bowl once the potatoes are mashed, then fold in the cod and continue whisking as you add the oil.
- Fish should be cooked until opaque and flaking; if serving vulnerable groups, ensure it is piping hot all the way through after baking.
Substitutions
- Replace Yukon Gold potato with Maris Piper potatoes for a similarly fluffy mash.
- Replace whole milk with double cream for a richer, more luxurious brandade.
- Replace breadcrumbs with panko breadcrumbs for a crunchier topping.
Storage
- Refrigerate up to 2 days
- Cool completely, then cover and refrigerate. Reheat in a 180°C (355°F) oven for 15 to 20 minutes until piping hot; add a small splash of whole milk if it seems dry.
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Recipe overview
- Servings: 4 servings
- Total time: 1h 45min (35min active)
- Difficulty: Medium
- Cuisine: French
-
Allergens:
Fish Gluten Milk Wheat
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